Is your skin barrier compromised? Dermatologists reveal how you can tell and fix it

It's your skin's hardest working area, and it pays to keep it healthy
Skin barrier
Saumya Sachdev

If you've heard the term 'skin barrier' being tossed around everywhere of late, it's because, in the derm world, this is the one area that can transform how your skin looks and feels. It's also the reason why a Google search of the term pulls up over 21,80,00,000 hits, and the same hashtag has generated over 3 billion Tik Tok views. To put it into perspective, your skin barrier, which is the outermost layer of your skin, is where all the magic lies unless it is compromised. Then you see everything from redness to chronic dryness, itchiness, and inflammation crop up. But taking care of it in the right manner can single-handedly be one of the best things you can do for your skin. We ask experts to reveal the tips and tricks they have up their sleeves to protect and nurture the dermis.

What is your skin barrier?

As the outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum takes on the mantle of protective skin barrier against the environment. Given that it's made up of hardy skin cells called corneocytes, it's referred to as a brick wall. Fun fact: several areas of the stratum corneum have a thickness of approximately 20 layers of cells. These corneocytes are bound by lipids, the mortar that secures everything together, forming the barrier that keeps out toxins and bacteria. "The skin barrier is integral in keeping the skin hydrated, as it helps prevent water loss when it functions optimally. When its brick and mortar structure is disrupted, leaving gaps, it allows for increased water loss initiating a cycle of dehydration, letting external stressors enter more easily," explains Prudvi Kaka, Chief Scientific Officer at The Ordinary. When your skin barrier is damaged or compromised, it can look inflamed, dry, red, flaky, discoloured, itchy, and reactive.

What damages your skin barrier?

Dr Niranjana Raj, Co-Founder and MD at the Yogiraj Centre for Dermatology and Cosmetology, points to factors like the environment, chemicals, irritants used on the skin, allergens, over-exfoliation, and steroid-induced damage as the culprits. "Underlying medical conditions like acne, atopic dermatitis or eczema, psoriasis, and ichthyosis can also compromise the barrier," she adds. If you find yourself experiencing discomfort, scaly, rough patches, increased sensitivity, stinging, or burning, you may be dealing with a compromised skin barrier. Once damaged, you could see improvement in 2-12 weeks with the right care.

Taking care of your skin barrier

Dr Akanksha Sanghvi, Aesthetic Dermatologist and Founder of Oprava Aesthetics, believes the first step is upgrading your skincare routine with rich moisturisers and barrier creams containing glycerine, zinc, lanolin, or organic oils, which can help restore and repair your skin. Kaka lists three ingredients that can hydrate or specifically target barrier support, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. "Ceramides are a key component within the skin barrier, and topical supplementation supports the optimal functioning of the skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid is a fundamental molecule that supports hydration and elasticity due to its ability to bind to and retain water. Niacinamide contributes to an improved skin barrier by aiding skin components essential to the integrity of the epidermal layer, such as ceramides and fatty acids. By doing this, it helps to reduce transepidermal water loss, thus helping maintain the skin barrier," he explains.

Along with what to add, you need to remember what to remove from your routine. "The first to go should be exfoliants and AHAs, BHAs, scrubs or chemical peels and harsh products with detergent or sulfates (SLS) that can further deplete the lipid content of the skin and aggravate barrier disruption.

The skin barrier is slightly acidic, so gentle pH-balanced cleansers work best," says Sanghvi. If you want a home remedy, she advises using oats. "Add water to unflavoured oats to form a paste. Apply this on affected areas of the skin that feel dry. Alternatively, soaking in a lukewarm oatmeal bath can also help. Oats restore the barrier, and soothe, moisturize, and protect the skin," she suggests. Lastly, one step that should not be overlooked if you want a healthy skin barrier is to use sunscreen daily. At the end of the day, a healthy skin barrier equals plump, hydrated, glowing skin, and which one of us doesn't want that?

This is our list of fail-proof products to reinforce your skin barrier.

Aminu Longevity Serum

This advanced cell protection serum calms skin sensitivity and protects and heals weakened skin.

Sadhev Ayurvedic Vitamin C Serum

Packed with amla, pomegranate seed oil, and natural Vitamin E, it nourishes, moisturises, revitalises, and rejuvenates the skin to leave it feeling soft and smooth.

Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Cream

This formula promises to improve skin texture and appearance and restores the barrier with highly-concentrated hyaluronic acid and black rice.

Skeyndor Blue Light Technology SPF50+ OCEAN RESPECT Protective Cream

A potent cream that is non-greasy and water-resistant to shield your skin from the sun and other external irritants.

Brandefy Skin Silks Triple Lipid Cream

Formulated with 1.5% pure ceramides, 4.0% pomegranate sterols, and 1.8% fatty acids, it delivers long-lasting hydration and moisture.

OTT Skyncare Do-It-All Moisturizer enriched with Rose, Probiotics & Niacinamide

This 3-in-1 formula hydrates, brightens, and revives damaged skin.

indē wild Sunset Restore Serum

Made with 1% Bakuchiol, it destresses and soothes skin to help it look rested, refreshed, and radiant.

Shankara Gheesutra Face Emulsion

Apart from protecting the skin barrier from harmful radiation, this face emulsion penetrates deep within your skin to repair any damage from the inside out.

Also read:

All you need to know about your skin barrier and why it needs the extra attention

5 ways to get dry and uncomfortable skin glowing again during winters

Are you messing up your face in the pursuit of glowing skin?