All you need to know about your skin barrier and why it needs the extra attention

Over exfoliation—physical and chemical—is doing more harm than good. Drop the acids and give your skin the healing nourishment it craves
All you need to know about your skin barrier and why it needs the extra attention
Ashish Shah

Look around you, or simply scroll through your Instagram feed, and you’ll find a different beauty brand announcing a new skin acid or exfoliant every single day. But how many acids are too many acids? Could you be over-exfoliating, damaging your skin with the hopes of a radiant glow? If you find that your skin seems bumpy, dull and dehydrated everyday, your skin barrier may be compromised.

“The skin barrier is the outermost layer of your epidermis which is the outer layer of the two main layers of cells that make up your skin,” explains Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, Delhi-based celebrity cosmetologist and founder, ISAAC Luxe and Skin by Dr G. “It protects your skin from external stressors such as pollution, harmful chemicals, ultraviolet radiation from sun exposure, and locks in moisture by preventing transepidermal water loss.” A strong barrier plays an important role in your overall skin health, making it essential to keep it nourished and well hydrated at all times. “It plays a key role in maintaining the pH of the skin,” adds Dr Chytra Anand, Bangalore-based celebrity dermatologist and founder, Skin Q Skincare. “It also prevents the skin from being porous meaning it stops penetration of ingredients of products into the skin to the deeper layers.” Here’s how you can identify if your barrier has been damaged and how you can nurse it back to health.

Why a weakened skin barrier is a common skin concern today

As chemical exfoliation sees a rise in popularity in the country, so does skin sensitivity. Unfortunately, not all brands formulate their at-home peels and chemical exfoliant-based serums as well as they should. Since they promise an instant glow, consumers find themselves investing in and using these products without reading the fine print or following frequency and after-care instructions. The result: Increased dryness, dehydration and sensitivity. All of these skin concerns point towards a compromised skin barrier which now needs intensive hydration and repair to revive itself. “A damaged skin barrier can cause irritants and allergens to seep into the skin, causing moisture and hydration to escape,” says Dr Gupta. “It can lead skin to lose elasticity and appear dry, dull, dehydrated, rough, and flaky, leaving it more vulnerable to damage from external environmental sources. Damage to the skin barrier can cause rosacea and eczema to flare up, chronic skin irritation, hyperpigmentation and skin infections.”

How can you identify a weakened skin barrier

Besides environmental aggressors, Dr Gupta describes the most commons reason for a weakened skin barrier to be the following:

  • As we age, our skin barrier gets weaker.
  • Using the wrong skincare products can disrupt your skin barrier. Skincare formulas containing drying alcohol, synthetic fragrances or harsh chemicals can really damage your skin and strip it off its nutrients.
  • Over cleansing and over-exfoliating can damage the skin barrier by stripping away the natural lipid barrier on your skin instead of protecting it from dirt and impurities.
  • An unhealthy lifestyle including a poor diet, stress, lack of sleep and intoxicants like smoking can weaken your skin barrier.

“If one has skin that is constantly erupting without any stimulation and is hard to control, reacts easily to new products, is blotchy then you know that your barrier function is low,” adds Dr Anand. She lists the following identifiers as common signs for an unhealthy skin barrier: “Dehydration, easy wrinkling, breakouts, sensitivity, redness or erythema, patchy skin, blotchy skin and rashes.”

Ingredients that can help strengthen your skin barrier

Including the right product in your skincare routine and staying away from anything that’s exfoliating or drying can help care for your skin barrier and bring it back to its healthy state. Here’s what you should use:

Antioxidants: “They help protect your skin against the drying effects of environmental stressors by fighting free radicals to minimise the visible signs of ageing brought on by oxidative damage. Include antioxidants both in your diet and your skincare. Ingredients like Vitamin C boost the production of ceramides, and other lipids, thus improving the skin's barrier function and help keep moisture levels topped up,” says Dr Gupta.

Ceramides: “The skin barrier is made of water and oil. They do not mix and hence seal the skin, creating a barrier. Ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty lipids are a part of our skin's natural barrier, making ceramide-based moisturisers the best way to repair and restore your skin,” suggests Dr Anand.

Hyaluronic acid: “It binds water to skin cells and penetrates the skin, infusing all layers of the skin with valuable, rejuvenating moisture. It also fortifies the skin's natural barriers to help lock moisture. This can help slow down the decaying lipid barrier and fortify it. Additionally, it helps reduce the visibility of wrinkles, creating a plumping effect and promoting skin cell regeneration by offering extra hydration and barrier protection to the skin,” explains Dr Gupta.

Squalene: “This is a lipid or fatty molecule that helps restore skin barrier,” says Dr Anand. You will notice that skincare products with this ingredient normally address it as squalene. This is because squalene is the stabilised version of the compound which makes it suitable for use on your skin.

Niacinamide: “This can help your skin grow a lipid barrier which helps retain moisture. It protects against oxidative stress, sun damage and minimizes signs of ageing. It also helps build cells in the skin while protecting them from environmental stressors such as sunlight, pollution, and toxins,” says Dr Gupta.

Take a look at our edit of products that can help heal your skin barrier: 

Dr G HA Intense Moisturizer

Tarun Bhatia Photography

Minimalist Squalane 100%

Aminu The Intense Care Soothing Cream

Clinique Moisture Surge Intense 72H Lipid-Replenishing Hydrator

Sunday Riley C.E.O. Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream

Global Beauty Secrets Tsubaki Face Oil